In search of the old pilgrimage route to "Takpa Siri"

 

A group of four trekkers undertook the journey in the Upper Subansiri valley to follow the ancient pilgrimage route to Takpa Siri. 

History

The Takpa Siri Mountain, aslo known as the “Crystal Mountain” is holy to the Tibetans, Monpas and Tagins of Arunachal Pradesh.

A pilgrimage was undertaken every 12 years, starting frm Chosam in Tibet. It followed the Tsari Chu valley till its junction with the Subansiri river and then go up the Subansiri river valley till Taksing. From here the route turned north along the Yume Chu. The pilgrimage would end at the holy Yume Gompa (monastery). This longer version of pilgrimage, called “Ringkor’, was undertaken over three month period and several thousand pilgrims passed on this route, staying in caves and bamboo shelters, which were called “Tsukang”. The local people stocked these shelters with food and wood. The pilgrims passed through this challenging and difficult route.
The Tagins, who stay in the Upper Subansiri valley, were paid yearly tribute by the Tibetans of Longju, and a special large tribute to help this pilgrimage every 12th year. Today, the pilgrimage has stopped as the Mc Mohan line of Line of Actual control (LAC) divides Takpa Siri and the valleys of Arunachal Pradesh. The pilgri route at Maja enters the Indian Territory and from Taksing, along the Yume Chu River return back towards china. Thus this fine tradition is now lost.

Our Trek
We followed the Ringkor route on both sides, as much as possible from the Indian areas. Starting on the 15th November we reached Guwahati to start our journey. Road travel of almost 850km was undertaken over 4 days, via Tezpur, Itanagar, Kamin, Ziro, Daporijo to reach Limiking, the starting point of our trek. As we started, the first challenge was to climb the Shere Thapa cliff. This cliff is named after a brave soldier, Shere Thapa of the Indian army, who held back atacking enemy forces, killing many of them, before he laid down his life. Even the Chinese admired his courage, buried him and left a note in Chinese at the site. 

Th climb goes up steeply and we were soon introduced to the Foot Suspension Bridges (FSB’s), the first one before the climb. These bridges are built over strands of iron wires with wood and bamboo planks put across. As the bridge swings and tilts one has to walk carefully, holding on to the wires.

 Across the bridge started almost 600 m steep climb, which snaked its way up. At many places improvised local wooden ladders were erected by the Tagins, most of the time, over exposed areas, where a sip can drag you down the slope or to the river. After the climb we reached Tame Chung Chung ( TCC, place of snakes). From TCC our first trek was along the Tsari Chu Valley to Bidak, little short of Maja. In typical local Tagin style , from TCC the route descended in a straight line for 800m to the junction of the Tsari Chu and Subansiri river at Gelensiniak. This descent was strenous and heavy on the knees. Over next 2 days, we trekked along the Tsari Chu on a wavy up down route through thick forest, tiring due to dehydration at this low height. Crossing several foot suspension bridges and overcoming wooden ladders, we stayed a night in a cave to reach Gelemo (1790m) next day. Biadk was rather near and relatively an easy walk. From here we returned back along the same route to TCC.

After a days rest at TCC, we proceeded up along the Subansiri valley to trek towards taksing. The steep ascent which we had just undertaken on return from Bidak, was to be descended again and in a similar fashion we followed the Subansiri crossing some tricky FSBs and steep wooden ladders to Dajobung (1640m) The next day we were at dadu on a similar terrain and both marches takign more than nine hours of walking per day. The route from dadu climbed to reding. Ahead either it was a nice gentle walk to taksing, or as we did ti, a short drive in a truck.

From Taksing we can look towards the junction of the Chayal Chu and Yume Chu and the LAC. At the merging point of these two rivers, the Subansiri is formed which flows down to meet the Brahmaputra River in the plains of Assam. After talking to the villagers, elders and knwoledgeable persons, we gathered much information about the traditions of Ringkor (the longer pilgrimage) and of Kingkor (The Short pilgrimage around Takpa Siri). We gathered infromation about the lifestyles of the pilgrims of yesteryears, their places of stay, their beliefs and roles of local Tagins with the pilgrims.

We retruned via the same route to TCC down the Shere Thapa to Limiking. Finally, again to the 850-km road journey brougth us back to Guwahati to fly home.

Early explorers like F.M. Bailey and H.T. Moresehaed had visited the area from Tibet. They have written about the both pilgrimages around takpa Siri. F. Ludlow and later F. Kingdon-Ward also undertook the pilgrimage and observed and wrote about the traditions and the botany of these areas. In 1956 Tony Huber studied the pilgrimage in detail and wrote a thesis for his doctorate called. The Cult of the Pure Crystal Mountain narrating details fo route and avrious legends associated with it.

After further research through books, journals, and details gathered by us, a detailed report about the great ancient pilgrimage of Takpa Siri would be prepared.

Period: 15th November – 13th December 2005
Members: Harish Kapadia, Wing Commander P.K. Sashindran, Ms. Sangeeta Sashindran and Prateek Deo.

- Compiled by Harish Kapadia

Seminar at Himalayan Club - Saturday 21st January 2006

Harish Kapadia will deliver a slide illustrated talk on “ In search of Takpa Siri” in Arunachal Pradesh where he recently trekked along an ancient plgrimage route in the Subansiri river valley near border of Tibet.
Time: 6:30 pm to 7.30 pm
Venue: The Auditorium, The Wellingkar Institute of Management, L.N. Road, Matunga East, Central railway, Mumbai 400 009.

Passes: for both days, Rs. 175 for members of Himalayan Club and Wellingkar students R.200 for member’s guests.
Organised by: The Himalayan Club.c/o R.R. Muni & Co.
3A Navyug Mansion, Next to Grant Road Station (W)
Mumbai 400 007Ph: 23863192